This guide is designed to use the full power of the hyper-links and to give The User’s Guide is not book in its classic form and there is no proper or right way to. Buy Astrofotografía: manual de técnicas del amateur by Patrick Martínez (ISBN: ) from Amazon’s Book Store. Everyday low prices and free. Instead, we will almost exclusively use the Manual mode setting. This will give us complete control over all of the camera’s settings and functions. Most will only.

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This tutorial is a handy reference for those who wish to process deep sky images captured with a DSLR camera and telescope. This step-by-step process takes an RGB color image from the initial capture to the final processing stages to enhance color, detail and clarity. My advice is to develop a system that works consistently, and stick with it. The order of the processing steps will evolve over time as you begin to see where each action falls into place.

The astrofotobrafia part is, you can always come back to your raw data and try out new techniques you have learned. This is a typical beginner deep-sky setup that includes a tracking equatorial mount to compensate for the rotation of the Earth. If you are intersted in seeing an example of the imaging equipment I use for deep sky astrophotography, have a look at this video: What do you need for deep sky astrophotography?

There are a number of choices when it comes to image processing, but my personal favorite route to take is Adobe Photoshop. Msnual application is well equipped with all of the tools and actions needed to produce an incredible deep sky astrophoto.

Astrofotografía: manual de técnicas del amateur – Patrick Martinez – Google Books

While others may prefer to use other tools for image processing such as StarTools or PixInsightPhotoshop continues to be my personal favorite for everything astrophotography. I will outline the order I run these actions in below. The complete list of software I use for astrophotography image processing can be found on the Resources page in the main menu.

This tutorial is still of value to those of you using only DeepSkyStacker and an earlier version of Photoshop. Many of the actions can be accomplished manually in a series of steps. I have highlighted the workaround methods for certain actions such as the star minimizer technique and gradient removal without using Gradient Xterminator.

I highly recommend investing the the Astronomy Tools Action set. I purchased this action set many years ago and continue to find it very useful for all of my astrophotography projects. If you prefer to follow along with a video, you can do so below. The deep sky object is the Rosette Nebula, but the processing steps used mirror the step-by-step guide below.

I take the unprocessed RAW image file through a series of adjustments and actions to bring out the full color and beauty of the Rosette Nebula. If you would like to practice image processing on a pre-stacked image, you can download my Autosave.

It is a photo of the Rosette Nebula with over 2 hours of total exposure. It is the same 32 bit TIFF file that was used in the video tutorial above.

If you prefer a step-by-step guide to my techniques, you can follow along with the astrophotography tutorial on the Lagoon Nebula below.

The techniques used can be applied to many deep-sky objects but will work best on wide-field nebulae like the one in this tutorial. The more exposures you have captured on your target, the better your signal-to-noise ratio will be. Those of us who shoot in a light polluted city backyard can compensate for a washed out sky by collecting hours and hours worth of data.


Support files such as darks, flats and bias frames also play a large role in correcting the data. To start, you will need enough signal on your deep-sky object to create a quality astrophoto. A healthy amount of signal light provides you with good data to work with. In the beginning, just focus on collecting as much exposure time as possible on each project. The example sequence uses light frames captured using a DSLR camera:. The exposure length and ISO can be increased, but this is a good benchmark to follow.

Centering the target in the field is important, so take the time to orient your camera and telescope properly during acquisition. This will help avoid situations such as cutting off portions of the target, and losing details do to vignetting or gradients.

The software I use to view and organize my raw photo files is Adobe Bridge. The images were captured using a small refractor telescope, which is great for wide field subjects such as the Lagoon Nebula.

Learn more about the importance of your astrophotography mount. To help create a smooth image with an adequate signal-to-noise ratio, I took dark frames of the same exposure length and temperature, with the lens cap on.

This is a very important step in my stacking process, and it does a great job of removing much of the noise in my images taken using such a high ISO.

I usually do this while I am tearing down my imaging equipment at the end of the night. I have seen the best results when I take dark astroofotografia. It is important to keep all of your RAW files in mabual.

It also makes the stacking process much faster and easier when you have taken the time to create separate folders and name your work. For each imaging session, I start with a folder with the target name.

The folder structure includes the date, followed by separate folders for light, dark, bias and flat frames. I use DeepSkyStacker to register align and stack my astrophotos to improve the signal to noise ratio.

This is an essential first step for any deep sky image processing manuual. Once they have populated the area in the bottom half of the screen, you can then select dark files… and open up your dark frames.

They will be added to your list astorfotografia stacked image files. If all of the recommended support files have been applied in DeepSkyStacker, the notification bar in the Register Settings dialog box will turn green. Make sure that the box next to Stack after registering is checked off. You can see your total number of light, dark, flat and bias frames listed above the stacking list.

In this case, I have 17 light astroofotografia and 15 dark frames. I have not used any bias or flat frames for this project. Hit OK in the dialog box, which brings up the Stacking Steps dialog box.

DSLR Camera Settings for Astrophotography

This will show you the estimated total exposure time, which for me is 1 hour and 25 minutes. After hitting OKyou may want to go grab a coffee. The process of registering and stacking your photos can take up minutes, depending on the comp.

Once finished, DeepSkyStacker will create a bit stacked master file, and auto saves it to the directory containing your light frames. In fact, the file it produces is by default named Autosave.

Astrofotografía : manual de técnicas del amateur: : Books

This is the file we will be opening up in Adobe Photoshop for further processing. A preview of your registered and stacked image will display in Deep Sky Stacker when the process is complete.


The details of your final image are displayed in the top left corner of the screen including ISO, Exposure and the location of the created. My image ended up being exactly 1 hour of total exposure.

I do not make any adjustments to the image within DSS itself, everything from this point on happens in Photoshop. Now the real fun begins as we find our Autosave. It will look very similar the preview you just saw in DeepSkyStacker. There are many ways we can bring out the true beauty of this deep-sky treasure. However, I think we can all agree on this universal goal: Increase the color, detail and clarity of the image in a natural way.

What might look good on Friday, looks like a complete mess by Sunday. Every astrophotographer does the same thing. Now on to the fun part of this astrophotography tutorial, the processing.

Using the 9 steps below, I will show you how to turn your dull original file into a colorful cosmic work of art. Before we get started, I should note that the order of the processing actions you take can have a substantial effect on your results.

The image processing reference graphic below outlines the order I take maual using Asteofotografia Photoshop. The very first task I must perform to each of my images is a slight crop. I do this to trim away the edges of the image where any stacking and registering artifacts may have occurred. This is why framing your target in the center of the image is so important, you do not want to be cutting into any of your precious data.

The crop tool in Photoshop handles this tasks with ease. Drag the bounding box to your desired size, and hit enter to trim away the very edges of your frame. There are several ways to accomplish this task, and every astrophotographer will tell you their way is the best.

I prefer the ease and simplicity of a handy Photoshop plugin known as Gradient Xterminator. Once installed, this life-saver performs all of the in-between steps for you with the click of a mouse. First, I select the areas of the frame affected by vignetting with the lasso tool, and then I run the RC-Astro Gradient Xterminator plugin with the settings seen below:.

Some experimentation with the exact areas that have the vignetting issues may astrofotograffia to take place.

Notice that I did not select the Balance background color option. Hit OK when you are ready to get rid of those nasty dark edges of your photo. I will say, that astfofotografia example has little to no vignetting or gradient issues because this photo was taken under dark skies. Any image I take from my backyard suffers from heavy vignetting and gradient issues, which take some time to get rid of.

How to remove gradients without using the Gradient Xterminator plugin.

The initial levels adjustment should look like the histogram below, bringing the left-hand slider just to the edge of the data. You will also do the same with the right-hand slider, in towards the bright details of the image. Bringing the sliders in passed the data will clip the image data, resulting in a loss of image information. We have reached the limit to where we can take this image in its current state.

We will need to convert this. Once you have selected the Exposure and Gamma method, press OK.